Lijiang
The Old Town of Lijiang is, since 1997, one of UNESCO World's Heritage sites. This well preserved Naxi minority village lies in the middle of modern Lijiang, a 2400 m. high small city not far from Dali. Hit by a serious earthquake in 1996, the old wooden houses and the stone-paved little streets around the hill are now clad in their original splendor. They're just a little too splendid, and since our first trip there four years ago tens of new shops, hotels and restaurants have put out their bright-colored signs. Once one of the hideaways of Western backpackers, Lijiang is now Chinese tourists everywhere, but it's still definitely worth a 3-4 days visit.
	Lijiang is the home of the Naxi minority, one of the most interesting in China. Dongba wen, their own language, sounds like singing. They have their own religion and sacred texts written in their pictorial writing. The Museum of Naxi Culture (5 yuan) is worth some of your time.

In the evening it's nice to walk around and seek new places to eat - they're usually good and reasonably priced. Baba, fried flatbread, is the local dish. Attractions outside Lijiang include: the Tiger Leaping Gorge (Hutiao xia) trek along the Yangzi river; Baisha - the ancient village with wonderful frescoes where Taoist medician dr. He lives; the Jade Dragon Snow Mountains (Yulong xueshan) at 5500 meters above Lijiang. You can miss the monasteries down in the valley; they're either fake and touristic (like Yufeng temple) or abandoned.

How to get there: Dali-Lijiang takes 3 hours by bus, while Kunming-Lijiang will take at least 8-9 hours. You can also catch a plane from Kunming to Lijiang - it's not really expensive but you will miss the beautiful view along the way. Lijiang is some 5 hours away from Zhongdian. Hints and tips: Lijiang is completey touristic so take a good stroll around town before spending all your money on wooden dishes and embroidery. There are no special warnings to keep in mind in this lovely place - just try to distinguish the fake from the real.

	On the left: world-wide famous dr. He (see Bruce Chatwin's What am I doing here?) gives us some of his medicinal tea in Baisha.
On the right: two Naxi women in their blue robes.   All pictures taken by Anna Del Franco on April, 26, 2000. Camera: Minolta Dynax 500si, 35-70 and 80-210.

 

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Sinophilia was born in 1998 as a meeting-point for China-lovers. In these years we have managed to build a database of essential information on the Chinese culture, adding here and there a few more specific essays on Chinese art, history, language and religions, and some useful tools.

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